We have taken a day off: doing nothing, going nowhere. Well almost!
Patricia relaxed in our room while I went for a walk. I was sightseeing and hunting for shorts to buy. I tried to walk only in the shade. It is really, really hot and is going to get hotter at Alice Springs. It was meant to be a short walk but it didn’t work out that way. This is the man-made lagoon by the Esplanade. It even has a little sandy beach and its own lifeguard. After about 1.5 miles I stopped for a Ginger Ale and some water. I had already drunk one of the two bottles I was carrying. I just wondered how cold it was in Dundee. Gorgeous views along the boardwalk. One of the lovely things about this trip is bumping into others from the group every time we go out. I know you can’t see them but this tree is full of the biggest, noisiest bats I have ever encountered. By this time I had bumped into 3 couples from our group. Norman & Lynne directed me to the blissfully air conditioned Cairns Shopping Mall where I recovered my equilibrium and body temperature as well as buying shorts for me and Patricia. After a roastingly hot walk back and a quiet snack in our room it was down to the pool for the rest of the afternoon. We were served the worst G&Ts ever! After a few minutes we decided they were undrinkable and I took them back. The problem turned out to be their on-tap tonic water. The barman sent for bottled tonic and served replacement drinks to our sun beds. They were delightful. It was so hot that Patricia needed a seat in the hotel atrium that we walk through to return to our room. It is just like sitting right in the tropical rainforest. For our final meal in Cairns we went back to Ollie’s, the Italian restaurant on the boardwalk across from the hotel. We shared all the courses again but still couldn’t manage a whole pizza between us. We had the delicious warm blood orange and almond cake with blood orange sorbet again. (There was a funny light causing my half white face. Sorry)
The plan was to go to bed early. I’m afraid it is now 11.15pm. Goodnight. I’m hoping for a few hours sleep.
Today a coach and Skyrail ride to Kuranda and a scenic train trip back.
A half hour coach trip took us to the Tjapukai Cultural ParkThere, our Aboriginal guide Weeku demonstrated traditional weapons, their uses and origins. He was amusing and interesting. He played the Didgeridoo impressively, demonstrating the technique of playing while breathing. Where to keep your mobile in traditional aboriginal dress!
Breaking tribal law was a bad idea. Punishments included a barbed spear through the thigh. The offender had to push the whole spear through his leg to remove it and thus show he was “man enough” to take his punishment. 3strikes and it was death!
The aborigines who performed their dances for us were from the Djabugandji tribe. These are people of the tropical rainforest on the north east coast of Australia. The map shows the hundreds of tribes, each with their own language but able to understand the surrounding tribes. Spear throwing practice. I didn’t do too badly. That’s me in the pink. We also did boomerang throwing; mine came halfway back.I managed to catch one of Patricia’s efforts. This woman was part of a theatre performance telling the tribe’s dream stories. They used all round wall screens and the floor to project images while they spoke and acted. Most effective.The centre was in a beautiful setting in the rain forest. Fiona leant over the bridge rail to see the turtles and lost her hat. We walked to the Skyrail terminal next door to get in a gondola for a 7km ride above the beautiful tropical rain forest. It was a wonderful quiet and smooth ride.All forest life is in the canopy, as every living thing fights for light. There is little nourishment to be found on the forest floor; the soil is poor. Our guide, Alex was in our gondola. He is very green and well informed. He was able to point out more interesting things than I can remember now. Approaching Red Peak Skyrail station, where we made a 10 minute stop for a guided boardwalk into the rain forest. Red PeakAn example of an epiphyte: an organism that grows on the surface of a plant getting moisture and nutrients from the air, rain, water and debris around it. We saw orchids growing this way. See the barbs on these young, juicy rattan leaves. When the leaves mature and are no longer appetising the barbs disappear. The top half of a huge Kauri tree, probably around 400 years old. The biodiversity of the surrounding tropical rainforest is dependent on this tree. Back on our gondola to continue our journey to the rainforest village of Kuranda.Although temperatures were very high, there was enough airflow to remain comfortable for the remainder of the calming ride. We passed over the Barron River, held back by the Barron Dam. This walkway to Kuranda was well shaded: essential as the temperature was in the high 30s by this time. We chose a restaurant on the basis of its air conditioning. We had hardly sat down when the power to the village went off. The proprietress rapidly encouraged us to the terrace and manhandled the doors away to give us a breeze. The view as we enjoyed our beers.Life size model of a cassowary bird in the Kuranda visitor centre. There were large live forest spiders and stick insects there as well There wasn’t a lot for us to do in Kuranda as we weren’t interest in paying for the butterfly or Koala centres. Someone didn’t want his garage blocked!
There were a few really good shops in the street markets and we had a happy wander through them. We finished off with delicious mango sorbets in the shade. We were so hot by this time that we never gave a thought to taking photos.
Time to join the Scenic train back towards Cairns
The Cairns-Kuranda Railway was a huge fear of engineering. The gold rush of the 1870s and extreme wet weather in the 1880s causes near starvation. A reliable supply route was needed. So the railway was built.
The Barron Gorge from the train.Stoney Creek FallsA quick stop to see the gorge. The train entering one of the many short tunnels. The two diesel locomotives pulling us along were built in the 1960s, replacing the steam locomotives. Passing Stoney Creek Falls. The carriages however date from the early 1900s. This was obvious from the levels of comfort and noise we endured.
The scenery and the experience were fantastic but I have never seen our whole group totally overheated and exhausted before.
We disembarked and headed to bay 11 for our air conditioned coach. Patricia and I were among the first to board.
As we climbed aboard the coach we uttered involuntary, heartfelt oohs, as the air conditioning hit. Every single member of the group found themselves doing the same. It became very funny for those already on board. Eventually there was a chorus of oohs as each boarded. It was definitely hysteria resulting from the extreme heat we had experienced all day. Everyone returned to sanity a bit later.
After refreshing swims and showers back at the hotel we chose Dundee’s for our evening meal. A lovely end to another great day. It was steak and chips for us both: we didn’t share this time. We both fall asleep very quickly each night.
An early short walk to the Catamaran Magic Reef 111 for our day on the Great Barrier Reef. All aboard.
On the top deck ready for the one and a half hour cruise out to the reef. I had taken a Stugeron by this point. Leaving Cairns And on our way. It was very hot. Unusually, there was quite a swell due to North West winds. Apparently this only happens on about 14 days a year. Patricia wasn’t allowed to do her chosen helmet dive due to her bad ear. She was able to sit on this platform in the water and enjoy the view.
I was considered fit enough for a 30 minute snorkelling experience in the sea viewing the reef. We all wore Lycra Stinger suits which covered us from hood to toe including mittens. It is still jellyfish season. There are no photos of me in my Lycra. I chose not to wear a life jacket.
This is the sort of photo that should exist of me with this very friendly big fish.
I got gradually sicker in the big swell on the way out to the reef. As we prepared to tie up next to the two storey pontoon where we were to spend the day, the swell was tremendous and it seemed to take hours to tie up. The end result was predictable.
By the time I got in the sea, fully togged up, I was really not well. Four of us were holding on to a life belt while Daniel, marine biologist, swam us around the reef. It was quite amazing with occasional brilliant colours. So many different textures and types of coral, huge variety of little fish, some tiny but brilliantly coloured, a small shark and a turtle. We were sometimes within inches of the reef.
I didn’t like having a snorkel in my mouth and my nose blocked up but I managed very well for 20 of the 30 minute session. Just at the time I should have posed for a photo underwater I had had to raise my head and remove the snorkel fearing I was about to be sick. So no photo I’m afraid.
Fish feeding time. This guy is standing in the water on the platform where we were taught how to snorkel before our trip. Sadly I didn’t last long after getting out of the water before my breakfast and I parted company. This is what everyone else was doing while I recovered.
Lunch was provided but I gave it a miss. I gave the semi-submersible ride and the glass bottomed boat a miss as well. By this time I had had 2 Stugeron and a ginger tablet. I managed a bottle of ginger ale but that was all.
Back in Cairns. we disembarked at around 5:30pm after a unique and memorable day. I have snorkelled in the Coral Sea at the Great Barrier Reef!You may not be able to see them in this photo, but every evening at 7pm thousands of quite large bats fly in to Cairns To roost in these trees and others around the waterfront: it is quite a spectacle. After seeing the bats we walked to an Italian restaurant near our hotel. I had finally regained my appetite; we enjoyed a good meal.
We shared starter, main course and dessert and had plenty of eat. The warm blood orange and almond cake with blood orange sorbet was the best pudding I’ve tasted in a long time.
While we were eating there was a tremendous storm with torrential rain and endless sheet lightening. The rain had stopped when we came out though the lightening was still going strong. Another fine spectacle.
We go on a tour to Kuranda tomorrow. It involves coach, gondola and train. I will be on the Stugeron again!
It was 0600 alarm, 0630 breakfast and 0730 departure for Melbourne Airport for the 3 hour flight to Cairns.
Our best selfie ever, using a mirror. Taken in our hotel room before 0630 breakfast.
We had our best ever airport experience as well. I’m sorry I forgot to take a photo of Alex organising two neat rows of 42 passengers’ luggage, the 42 passengers standing well back as ordered, Alex doing one row; the Quantas man doing the other, attaching labels and baggage labels at great speed. We retrieved our luggage tags which had been gently placed on each case. The male passengers were then asked to help lift all the luggage on to the conveyer belt at our dedicated check in desk. The desk was well away from all the other desks in a lovely empty area. We then set off for security and the gate. The whole process was a masterclass in efficient organisation. I said our guide was a bit edgy; he is the sort who makes sure he gets good service, the absolute opposite of our ineffectual Queenstown guide. Really really sorry I didn’t take a photo.
The temperature was around 36° when we landed in Cairns. Alex sent us off to follow the blue line to reach Phil (the driver) and his coach. The heat hit us hard. The flight was good though the lunch, curried chicken dumplings, was not. This is the view from our bedroom in the 5 star Hilton Cairns Hotel. The tropical atrium outside the rooms. After unpacking and resting we swam in the hotel pool. It is the biggest hotel pool I’ve seen. we chatted to a couple of Canadians claiming Scottish and English ancestry going as far back as the 1500s. It seems to be a common North American obsession. We simply stepped out of the hotel to find ourselves at the waterfront. It is a beautiful setting. We enjoyed fajitas and a drink here. Monday is 2 for 1 fajitas day!These two plates make one serving of Tiramasu. I thought the waitress had misunderstood my order for one Tiramasu and an extra plate, but I was wrong. Others in the group came back from a walk awed by the local bats. They are much bigger than our local Pipistrelles.
Tomorrow is a trip to the Great Barrier Reef. It should be quite exciting.
The Great Ocean Road tour today. We will travel over 500km.
Anglesea, our first short stop. Morning tea stop. To our amazement a table, urn, tea, coffee and biscuits appeared from the back of the bus it was very pleasant. The views of the ocean along the way were stunning. The photos don’t do them justice. Alex (guide) pointed out a million dollar house on the cliff side. I thought it really wasn’t up to much,And then I saw the right house; I wouldn’t live in that for a million. Michelle knowingly waited for the unexpected wave while encouraging us to just step back a little. I think we should sell this to an old fashioned comic postcard company. The skies were grey and dark but rain never threatened. The winds were very strong the whole way along. We passed Aireys Nest, burnt out by bushfires 3 years ago. Only the General Store survived. The houses have been rebuilt and regeneration is underway. We made several stops along the way. It was odd picking juicy, delicious brambles in February. A stop at a known Koala area. It was wonderful to see them in the wild. This one was very patient with a crowd of us at the foot of his tree. A colourful parrot. A kookaburra Back on the winding road in the high winds. After a 5 hour drive, which felt much less, we arrived in Apollo Bay where lunch was booked in the hotel. The beach at Apollo Bay after delicious fish and chips. This buggy arrived and I wondered why Then I saw this para surfer (is that the right term?) out there despite the red flag o the beach. A short walk to see the stacks. Finally reached the 12 Apostles, sandstone stacks. There are fewer than 12 now. Loch Ard Bay, the site of a famous shipwreck in 1878. All but 2 of 32 aboard an immigrant ship from Ireland were drowned. The cabin boy famously rescued Eva, the only one left of a large Irish family.
After Loch Ard we drove an inland route back to Melbourne. We had bought food in a bakery in Apollo Bay and dined comfortably in our room before doing battle with the washer/dryer machine in our room.
The machine won! The end result was washing drying overnight hanging from every available surface.
We had a fairly comprehensive coach tour of many of the Melbourne sites of interest this morning. Our guide is a bit edgy but very interesting.
Melbourne trams are free within much of the city. We didn’t manage to ride on one. Melbourne MuseumMCG, more hallowed than Lords in this part of the world!The Royal Exhibition building built in 1879 when there was worldwide competition to build the best Exhibition buildings. It is currently hosting a Russian Exhibition, note the Lada. Temperatures are fine, around 27°Melbourne has lovely gardens. This is Fitzroy Gardens, established in the early 1860s when Melbourne was very young indeed. Captain Cook’s cottage in Fitzroy Park. It was built in Yorkshire in 1755 by his parents. An Australian bought it in 1934, brought it home and rebuilt it here!I initially thought this meditation group was perhaps an Anthony Gormley installation: I have never seen human beings stand so perfectly still.Albert ParkThe Formula One race track in Albert Park, being prepared for action. Standing on the finishing line. St Kilda West, a Melbourne suburb. St Kilda WestLunar Park Amusement Park in St Kilda West The Shrine of Remembrance, built after World War One, but now in memory of all fallen Australian Soldiers. It was the first to be built in honour of the men lost rather than in celebration of a victory. In the afternoon we crossed one of the many bridges over the YarraAnd visited the busy South BankIt had almost a Bank Holiday feel. There were many hen parties around. Flinders Street train station, built at the start of the 20th century, used to be a favourite meeting place. St Francis’ Catholic Church, Built on the 1840s, it is the oldest Catholic Church in the date of VictoriaWe went to Vigil Mass there. The congregation was predominantly immigrants.
We had booked for a meal on the Southbank for 8pm but Patricia has walked far enough and we were both very tired.
We finished up sharing a room service lasagne and a bottle of red wine; there was plenty left for tomorrow!
The Shotover RiverArrowtown, an old gold mining town now existing entirely on tourism as far as I could see. It grew during the 19th century gold rush. The gold rush attracted both Europeans and impoverished Chinese. The Chinese were unwelcome and lived in poor settlements in homes such as these. The Chinese homes have been restored. It must have been a very hard life. Our good natured tour group, Our good natures were sorely tested at Queenstown Airport. Check in by kiosk required a nonexistent tour guide code to allow us to check in.
We stood around for an hour with our tour guide trying to get help from Virgin staff. Some of them simply disappeared. One was finally persuaded to process all 42 of us singly by overruling the computer system each time.
First view of Melbourne’s South Bank of the Yarra River from our hotel. Part of our massive suite. Pizza and wine in our room to finish the day.
Another beautiful day in Queenstown We walked along the edge of the lake from our hotel to the Steamship Wharf Approaching the waterfront. Today is a public holiday, quite a buzz about the place. Coffee in the sun while waiting for our steamship. We watched coal being loaded onto the ship.It took the whole of this lorry load of coal. SS Earnslaw Sailing on SS Earnslaw on Wakatipu Lake Through beautiful rugged sceneryTo Walter Peak High Country FarmThey farm Merino and Pirandello sheep here. The young sheep was fully shorn in a matter of minutes. The two dogs brought the five sheep down from the top of the hill very efficiently And ran them into their pen. Beautiful gardens like the best of an English garden in high summer. A superb BBQ meal in the lakeside restaurant My desserts; there’s a lemon meringue tartlet hidden behind the chocolate and coffee mousse mini milk churn. The plum sorbet was outstanding. Beauty all around. The SS Earnslaw returning to pick us up. I’m covered by cardigan and scarf to protect the bits that got burnt yesterday at the top of Bob’s Peak. We sat out on deck for the trip home. We walked back to the hotel through Queenstown Gardens. The holiday was to celebrate Waitangi Day; when a treaty was signed between the Maoris and the British. The gardens were incredibly busy with music, dancing and picnicking families and young people.
We were struggling to get through the partying crowds when we met up with Karen & Neil from our tour group. Neil forged a path and we followed.
No evening meal tonight after such a lunch, just a glass of wine in the bar.
We fly out of Queenstown (and New Zealand!) to Melbourne tomorrow afternoon. The roads out of Queenstown are still a problem.
HAPPY BIRTHDAY JAMIE Wish you were here. Love from Mum XXX
Today has been a very different day. It turns out that Queenstown is beautiful!
The view opposite our hotelAfter a walk down into the town we queued for a gondola ride up Bob’s Peak, one of the Remarkables. You could have brought your bike up the mountain on the back of the gondola Jamie then cycled down. The views were stunning. The air was a bit chilly at the top but it soon turned into a lovely warm day. We walked up further and watched people on the Luge run.We thought “ We could do that!”On the way up to the Luge run. It was great fun, even when faster young men overtook without warning. We would happily have gone down again. Cooling down with Tip Top Ices; New Zealand’s best brand.
The weather is expected to be good here again tomorrow. Distant Journeys has refunded the cost of the cancelled Milford Sound excursion and we have booked a lunch cruise for tomorrow instead. There are still problems with all the roads out of Queenstown but we fly out on Friday. No difficulty expected there.
Have a great birthday celebration this evening Jamie.
The ONE LANE BRIDGES are a regular feature of the roads on South Island.Along with parts of the roads, they can be washed away. Water was exceptionally high everywhere Many of the road works were to repair water damageRainy trek to the falls Thunder Creek Falls
The above photos tell the whole story of our day. We drove from Franz Joseph to Queenstown; it took all day. There was some anxiety about whether we would get through at all.
We crossed the Southern Alps back to the east through the Haast Pass. The rain was torrential with newly formed rapid waterfalls at the side of the road in many places. It was clear where the road had been washed away a few days ago but rapidly repaired. Our driver described conditions as a weather bomb, the like of which he had never seen. Apparently a metre of rain has fallen in the last few days.
We will be here for three nights. Our Milford Sound Cruise is cancelled as the roads are impassable. 200 people are still trapped there. All the attractions in Queenstown seem to involve outdoor activities.
Our hotel is a little way from the centre, up a big hill.
Apart from all that we’ve had a great day!
Food, drink and company in the bar improved the day immensely.
Australia and New Zealand 2020 